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Japanese Traditional Craft Resource Center Category

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Japanese Traditional Craft

Tokushima
Craft Category Textile
Name Awa Shijira-ori: Awa Shijira Weaving

Main Production Site:Tokushima




《Characteristics》
Awa Shijira-ori is attractive for its unevenness called shibo (凹凸) as it adds particular texture and beauty. Vivid shibo emerges by immersing innovatively woven cloth in boiling water of about 75℃and then drying.

One method to make shibo is to interweave two kinds of warp with different tensility in the same organization so that shrunken warps can create wrinkles and shrinks. Another method is to weave with one kind of warp in a mixed organization and then to immerse in hot water. (A unique striped pattern is produced from alternate weaving of two weft followed by one weft in between the warps. Clothes with this pattern were woven mainly for farmers in the Edo period (17-19c)).

Unevenness (凹凸) of shibo allows for smooth texture and has the merit of being light and cool. It is highly hygroscopic as it is made of cotton and is best clothing to withstand the heat of the summer.

[Traditional Craft Officially Designated by Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry]
Information provided : Awa Shijira-ori Cooperative Society

Translation by: Yoshinori Sakamoto, reviewed by Yoshiko Nagao

Materials Cotton, Indigo
Crafting Processes [1]Hanking up
Wind yarn on a reel

[2]Dyeing
Dye yarn indigo in a hank dyeing only caldron

[3]Washing yarn with water
Wash dyed yarn in water

[4]Drying yarn in the sun
Dry in the sun yarn pasted with gloiopeltis glue for the purpose of preventing fluffing

[5]Reeling・Warping
Prepare the warp by checking the numbers of warps, width, length, and arrangement of colored threads. Then wind the warp around the warping machine.

[6]Weaving
Weave cloth

[7]Drying and finishing
Immerse the fabric in boiling water of about 75℃ for a while to remove the gloiopeltis glue and to let it shrink. Characteristic shibo (凹凸) will then appear.
History It was strictly forbidden for the commonalty to use silk cloth in the days when the former feudal domain lord Hachisuka ruled the domain of Awa (West Japan). Therefore, the commonalty added fully worked-out beauty to cotton clothes so that they may look better in cotton fabrics.
It is said that a weaver living in Atake village in Awa named Kaifu Hana designed Awa Shijira-ori during the Meiji Restoration inspired by an accidental discovery. One day striped clothes became wet with sudden rain. She dried the clothes under the strong summer sunlight. When she had taken in the dried clothes in the evening she had noticed that parts of the surface had shrunken. Never seen shibo (凹凸) had appeared. Unevenness had appeared at the part where Hana wove the clothe miscounting the number of warps. This phenomenon gave her a hint and through continuous process of trial and error she had succeeded in creating a new cotton crepe pattern.

Previously "Shijira-ori" was called "Tatae-ori." Keeping the warp non-intersecting is called "Tatae" in the Tokushima dialect. That's why the name "Tatae-ori" came into existence.
Related URL http://www.awa-shijira.com

◆Exhibition / Showcase
Nagao Orifu General Partnership Company
Opening hours: 9:00am-16:00pm
Closed: Saturday and Sunday (Store open on Saturday)
189 Wada, Kokufu, Tokushima city, Tokushima prefecture, 779-3121
Tel: +81-(0)88-642-1228
Fax: +81-(0)88-642-1229
(Japanese only)

* You can visit our company and experience weaving. (reservation required) More details can be found here.

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